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you need a 6-pin DIN to cinch adapter cable, you can see it at 4:31

​@@josephklee213 any idea why the headunit turns on but no sound i have the din adapter plugged in with remote control connected etc but zero sound even on max volume

​@@MonstaNachoz I have no idea sorry

The faceplate screws from the back, if that's what you're referring to - see 8:44

Gotta love MCM!

Yes, that's correct!

Most likely if it's same model year, but best to double check vendors.

Thanks for watching. Is that the black cable you see at 5:49 ?

@@TobyWhiteUK Yes, what is that cylindrical black plug for?

@@playerdvd7530 found put what it is?

@@mikkelhoffmannpedersen2009 no

@@playerdvd7530 sorry for the late reply, didn't get the notification... to tell the truth, I don't know if this kit bypasses the factory amp and just uses the built in stereo, if you wanted to use the Volvo factory amp that would probably need a different setup. I could be talking rubbish too. I have sold the car now so can't go back to check :(

Thanks! It's doing the job :)

Nice video thinking of doing the same did this affect your reverse sensors ?

Mine didn't have reverse sensors @@Fousyrdous

*V70R - same just the estate / station wagon version. Appreciate you watching and taking the time 😀

Hi Aldo Thanks for watching! I think the sub would compliment those bookshelf speakers quite well and give you some additional bottom range that they won't necessarily be able to produce due to the size of the speakers. This sub may be small but I don't even have it on 1/2 volume and it does a good job.

@@TobyWhiteUK thank you very much for your kind response. Finally I bought a Polk ok Audio PSW 111, because of the ground firing port. It's quite much appropriate for my rather small living room. It works great, indeed. Thank you again!

@@aldopalacios3357 that makes sense. Enjoy the music 🎵😀

No worries! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Still going strong. No issues with it at all. Auto on / off works well. Just checked and I have it on less than 1/2 volume (not the biggest of Living rooms) and have it connected to an old Marantz SR5500 AV amp with Mordaunt Short surround speakers. Does the job very well. Good for films and music.

@@TobyWhiteUK Cheers! I nearly bought some KEF Q350 the other day, but when I set them up next to my old Arcam Alphas, they didn't sound as good! I wanted a bit more bass and thought the KEF might be the ticket, but alas no. I bought the Arcams over thirty years ago, second hand! I sent the Kefs back and bought the Cambridge subwoofer. Looking forward to seeing how it sounds!

@@mick2d2 ah, fingers crossed it all worked out then. I actually turned the volume up a little since I last replied and think it’s doing a better job. I fiddled around for ages with various subwoofer test videos on RUclips. After a while I think it’s best to leave it be as you get too engrossed in all that haha. I do notice the newer films with better quality audio tracks tend to sound great. I notice big changes when just listening to music as well.

@@TobyWhiteUK It’s worked out just fine. I only wanted it for music as I have another system for films (different room). This is subtle enough yet nice and punchy too. Fills in perfectly the gap I had in my speakers. Couldn’t be happier! 8)

@@mick2d2 excellent stuff - glad it all worked out for you :)

Thanks for watching! I don’t think it needs a fan, stays pretty cool even over prolonged run times.

Thanks for the comment. Erm, not sure now to tell the truth. If I kept the old cable I’ll update here but don’t think I did now.

Hi Rudy thank you for the time to watch and comment on my video 😀 So far it’s going really well. I’m loving the player interface using the Material plug-in for LMS github.com/CDrummond/lms-material This doesn’t really rely on the player software so much... I’m running the Pi headless without screen right now but can control using this plugin from any HTML5 compatible web browser. I’ll hope to do a follow up video the next rainy day ha ha

I know, and I’m sorry. By the time I had it together I was too afraid to take it apart again as it’s a little bit fiddly. There are more pictures on the write up I did that followed.. I have now added the link to the description as well. I may follow up with another video soon though.

ah right, no problem. I just found a doc on their web site, it's not entirely clear either but I managed to piece it together

I didn't. I was lucky I guess. Fortunately it aligned up for me first time, though can understand it must be difficult to fix if it doesn't. I've only built the one

Do you mean diesel? It’s a petrol 2litre I don’t have this anymore :-(

Yep just trace all the wires back where they’ve been spliced and remove them. On the early cars with OEM ECU you should be okay.. good luck!

@@TobyWhiteUK thanks sure wish it wasn't so boiling out today

Jason Ruckwardt haha yeah I don’t miss that job at all! Have fun contorting you’re way into that small space. I’m tall so was a bit of a mission 😜

@@TobyWhiteUK im 6" im sat upside down which kinda helps was ther to crimped connections bolted into the fuze box on yours

Jason Ruckwardt haha I’m 3 inches taller... on both this and the one I’ve still got, the connections were crimped left right and centre. Don’t remember so many in the fuse box itself but they were scotch locked everywhere else

Simpson Moss hi thanks for watching the video. Very happy with it so far. Our lounge isn’t that big but this packs a punch for what it is. Volume isn’t even half way on it and it’s enough to give a good bass sound

@@TobyWhiteUK Brilliant, thanks.

Shelly spikes yes, I kept the shoes back from my old one so you’d need to get some if you don’t already

Thank you

Platico c.l. Let me know, do you want to see a picture or a video?

djiatro hey! I bought it from Richer Sounds, they had a sale on at the time so luckily I got it at that price new :)

pavloslion mma not really I don’t think, it sounded pretty good from the start and still does

@@TobyWhiteUK Could you show a video of its excursion please as no other channel has a video of this sub woofer. Does it shake walls? Rattle objects?

Jess hey Jess, how big is your room? Our lounge is not massive and the volume is not turned up a great deal on the sub as we live in a terrace and don’t want to disturb the neighbours too much but it pumps out a good amount. I’ll try and take a video with a bass test soon although the sound won’t sound great on video - best tested in person if you can

Hi Yuri, nice setup...! So far so good! The sound is really great for the size. My room isn’t that big and I have to have the volume on the sub turned down quite a way, it’s certainly loud enough if you want it to be. The auto feature works very well and there’s no delay with it coming on.. which is good. You can hide the sub away from site and just expect it to come on when you want it to :) I’ve had a quick look at that Yamaha amplifier and it’s got a dedicated subwoofer out, so you just need to connect it via coax cable to the subwoofer Left input channel

@@TobyWhiteUK nice one Toby! I will probably get this subwoofer. Thanks for the info. I am also considering the Wharfedale sw150 as its also £150 but has a 10in sub rated at 150rms and also has auto on features. Ever heard it?

Yuri Periotto im not sure about that sw150. When I got the Cambridge audio it was on offer and reduced in price. I guess you want to try and find somewhere where you can listen to it first if possible?

@@TobyWhiteUK how much did you pay for the sub?

@@YuriPeriotto I think it was £120 when I got it

Jared Crockford as long as you have a Mk1 and it’s before 1997 or so where they didn’t have a built in immobiliser it’s fairly easy to remove an aftermarket unit by just removing all the wires from the original loom, like you say. It should be fairly easy to see where it’s been spliced in. If you need any further advice let me know :)

@@TobyWhiteUK Lucky, I have a 1993. Thanks dude!

Jared Crockford awesome! Yeah just keep on pulling bits off until you end up with a box of alarm bits. You’ll be surprised at how much junk you’ll end up taking out. The basic look and ignition setup is so simple

Aha, cheers mate! I’ll get with it and upload some more vids soon

I'll probably end up blanking this all off in future - happy to see what you have? Indeed, the car has come a long way since then, and recently passed it's MOT again. Now running properly and that!

Haha, you can find a decent deal over here in the UK on eBay if you hunt long enough/are patient enough! :)

Hi Robert, springs around 30mm lowered all round :) Thanks for comment

Not revving heavily at all my friend, stop trolling, I know what I'm doing.

revving from cold is bad...... end of! i should know as ive stripped plenty of k series engines down to see score marks from cold revving so best of luck is all im saying

Scott Drew I'm on my 3rd MG. A 10 second blip isn't going to do any harm.

Hi mate, It is definitely getting there, it's been a massive learning curve... I've taught myself most of my mechanical skill along with the help from my Dad. I did the whole install myself, which has taught me an awful lot. Probably the hardest part was getting the tune running correctly. I am running a Megasquirt DIYPNP ECU and using Tunerstudio to tune it. That in itself was a whole bunch of fun! Still needs a lot of tweaking but I'm getting there. It's currently in the garage having work done in prep for the MOT which is coming up. When it's all done I'm going to run it on a dyno to see what power I'm getting and give me the opportunity to do some more advanced tuning. That BEGI kit does seem quite popular but doesn't come with the ECU, or intercooler... that would probably add another £700. You'll also want to change your downpipe/exhaust... £250-300 Don't forget those costs. :) Enjoy!

@@TobyWhiteUK Hi Toby, I'm just going through your mx5 videos now, as i've got a mk1 that i've been thinking about turbo'ing for a while and i've been tempted to go for a full kit, but it's a bit dicey when they cost 3k+. How much has it cost you so far for your kit? have you fabricated some parts yourself?

@@j.jordan9877 hi mate thanks for taking the time. A general rule of thumb is to take whatever your budget is and then at least double it. I started this before kits from Bofi or Gcfab were around so it was a lot harder. Don’t forget all the supporting mods, dyno time, things going wrong. Don’t skimp on the Ecu and do things properly is what I would say. I’m probably upwards of £5k but I’ve not been counting. I actually want to start learning to weld.. would save some cost. Getting a custom exhaust wasn’t cheap...

Hey Joshua, I may do one when if I need to go back in there - it's fairly simple though. I used this guide: www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/Body/doortrim.html

OK I understand, I need to replace the driver door mirror on my Audi A8 D2, it was destroyed by my local refuse removal truck. I have the replacement, power fold version, but I am unclear how to remove the internal door panel without damaging it or hidden clips screws or components. What are the tricky aspects to be aware of? Your help would be appreciated as I can't really use the car safely as its the driver mirror that must be replaced.